Indoor outdoor plants: 9 garden plants that also thrive as house plants
I’ve killed my share of fussy houseplants. After a few years of trial and error, I started raiding the garden center instead of the indoor plant aisle. Turns out, plenty of outdoor perennials and annuals adapt perfectly to life inside — they just need the right treatment. Here are nine I’ve tested that actually survive (and sometimes bloom) on a windowsill.
Why most garden centers won’t tell you this
Walk into any big box store and the “houseplant” section is full of tropicals that need humidity, grow lights, and prayer. Meanwhile, the outdoor annuals and perennials are sitting right there, cheaper and often tougher. The catch? They need a transition period. You can’t just dig up a garden plant, stick it in a pot, and expect it to thrive indoors tomorrow.
The real trick is matching the plant’s natural light and temperature preferences to your home. Most garden plants labeled “full sun” will need the brightest south-facing window you have. “Partial shade” plants are your best bet for average rooms. And anything that goes dormant in winter outdoors will likely do the same inside — that’s normal, not a death sentence.
I’ve lost more plants to overwatering indoors than anything else. Outdoor soil drains fast. Indoor pots hold moisture. Mix in 30-40% perlite or coarse sand. Your plant will thank you.
Pelargonium (zonal geraniums) — the underrated workhorse
Why these work indoors
Standard zonal geraniums — the ones sold in six-packs for $3 at every nursery — are surprisingly forgiving indoors. They need direct light (south or west window) and cool temperatures. I keep mine around 60-65°F at night. They bloom for months if you deadhead regularly. The scent of the leaves is a bonus pest deterrent.
What most people get wrong
They treat them like tropicals. Geraniums hate wet feet. Let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Also, they get leggy fast without enough light. If your plant looks stretched, move it closer to the glass or supplement with a cheap LED grow bulb ($12 on Amazon).
I’ve had the same ‘Maverick’ series geranium blooming on my kitchen counter since October. It’s now March. That’s five months of flowers for a plant I paid $2.50 for.
Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) — the herb that doubles as a shrub
Indoor rosemary is a challenge worth taking
Rosemary is a Mediterranean plant. It wants full sun, dry air, and poor soil. Indoors, it usually dies from too much water or not enough light. But if you have a bright south window, it’s one of the most rewarding plants to grow. The smell alone is worth it.
I grow ‘Arp’ rosemary, which is one of the hardier varieties. It tolerates lower light better than ‘Tuscan Blue’ or ‘Spice Island’. Keep it in a terracotta pot (breathes better than plastic) and water only when the top inch of soil is bone dry. I water mine about every 10-14 days in winter.
One mistake I see constantly: people bring garden rosemary inside and it drops every needle within a week. That’s shock from the sudden change in light and humidity. Transition it over two weeks — bring it in for a few hours, then back out, gradually increasing indoor time.
Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) — the forgiving starter
Spider plants are sold as houseplants, but they’re also common in outdoor hanging baskets in summer. They’re practically indestructible. I’ve seen them survive in office cubicles with zero natural light (though they won’t thrive). The key is they tolerate neglect better than most.
They produce pups (baby plants) that root in water. I’ve given away dozens. They prefer bright indirect light but will handle low light. The only thing they hate is fluoride in tap water — that causes brown tips. Use filtered water or let tap water sit out for 24 hours before watering.
If you’re new to indoor plants, start here. It’s the only plant I’ve never killed.
Fuchsia — the bloom machine that needs cool nights
Fuchsias are the divas of this list. They want cool temperatures (55-65°F), high humidity, and consistent moisture. Indoors, they struggle in dry heated homes. But if you have a cool room or a basement window, they’ll reward you with nonstop flowers from spring through fall.
I grow ‘Swingtime’ fuchsia in my unheated sunroom. It gets morning sun only. I mist it daily and keep a pebble tray under the pot. It blooms from April to November. The flowers are stunning — red and white double petals that look like tiny ballerinas.
The failure mode: they get spider mites indoors fast. Check the undersides of leaves weekly. If you see fine webbing, spray with insecticidal soap immediately. Prevention is easier than cure.
Heuchera (coral bells) — the foliage plant for low light
Heucheras are shade garden staples. They thrive in low light, which makes them ideal for north-facing windows or rooms with only artificial light. The colored varieties — ‘Palace Purple’, ‘Lime Rickey’, ‘Caramel’ — provide year-round foliage interest without needing flowers.
They’re not heavy drinkers. Water when the top inch of soil dries. They’ll go semi-dormant in winter (leaves may look ragged) but bounce back in spring. I’ve kept a ‘Fire Chief’ heuchera on my desk for two years with just a standard LED desk lamp. It’s not growing fast, but it’s alive and colorful.
One warning: they’re prone to crown rot if you bury the crown (the point where stems meet roots). Plant them high in the pot, like you would with strawberries.
| Plant | Light need (indoor) | Watering frequency | Best variety for indoors | Temperament |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pelargonium (geranium) | Direct sun (south/west) | Every 7-10 days | ‘Maverick’ series | Easy if sunny |
| Rosemary | Direct sun | Every 10-14 days | ‘Arp’ | Finicky |
| Spider plant | Bright indirect to low | Every 7-10 days | Standard green | Very easy |
| Fuchsia | Bright indirect | Every 3-5 days | ‘Swingtime’ | Needs cool room |
| Heuchera | Low to medium indirect | Every 7-10 days | ‘Palace Purple’ | Easy |
| Cyclamen | Bright indirect, cool | Every 5-7 days | Standard florist | Needs cool + dry rest |
| Strawberry begonia | Bright indirect | Every 5-7 days | Standard | Easy, spreads |
| Cordyline (ti plant) | Bright indirect | Every 7-10 days | ‘Red Sister’ | Moderate |
| Boxwood | Bright indirect to low | Every 7-10 days | ‘Green Velvet’ | Slow grower |
Cyclamen — the winter bloomer that needs a summer nap
Cyclamen are sold as holiday plants, but they’re actually garden perennials in mild climates. Indoors, they bloom from fall through early spring if kept cool (50-60°F is ideal). The flowers look like butterflies hovering above marbled leaves.
The catch: they go dormant in summer. The leaves yellow and die back. Most people think the plant is dead and toss it. Don’t. Stop watering, let the pot dry out completely, and store it in a cool dark place for 2-3 months. In September, repot and start watering again. It will come back.
Water from the bottom — pour water into the saucer, not on the crown. Wet crowns rot. I use a plastic saucer and let the pot sit in water for 30 minutes, then dump the excess.
Strawberry begonia (Saxifraga stolonifera) — the trailer that fills a pot
Despite the name, it’s not a begonia. It’s a saxifrage. It spreads by runners (like strawberries) and makes a great hanging basket plant. The leaves are round, green with silver veins, and fuzzy. It’s one of the easiest plants I’ve ever kept indoors.
It wants bright indirect light and consistent moisture. Let the top half-inch of soil dry between waterings. It’s not fussy about humidity. I have one in my bathroom that gets only morning light and it’s taken over a 10-inch pot in one year.
The runners produce baby plants that root in adjacent pots. I’ve filled three pots from one mother plant. It’s a good plant to give away as gifts — just snip a runner and pot it up.
Cordyline australis (ti plant) — the architectural statement
Cordylines are common in tropical gardens, but the smaller varieties like ‘Red Sister’ or ‘Pink Passion’ work well indoors. They grow slowly, maxing out around 3-4 feet in a pot. The colorful leaves (red, pink, green) add height and drama.
They need bright indirect light. Direct sun scorches the leaves. Water when the top inch of soil dries. They’re sensitive to fluoride, same as spider plants — use filtered water.
The biggest issue I’ve had is spider mites. They love the broad leaves. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth monthly, and quarantine any new plant for two weeks before putting it near others.
Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) — the slow-growing topiary for low light
Boxwood is the classic hedge plant, but it also makes a great indoor topiary if you have patience. It grows slowly — maybe 2-3 inches per year indoors. That’s a feature, not a bug. It stays small and neat without constant pruning.
It tolerates low light better than most garden plants. I have a ‘Green Velvet’ boxwood in my north-facing living room that’s been happy for three years. It gets maybe 2 hours of indirect light a day. Water when the top inch of soil dries.
Boxwood is prone to root rot if overwatered. Use a pot with drainage holes and a very gritty soil mix. I use 50% potting soil, 30% perlite, 20% pine bark fines. It never sits in water.
The other risk: boxwood leafminer. If you see leaves turning brown in summer, that’s the culprit. Prune affected leaves and treat with neem oil. It’s rare indoors but happens if you bring in infested plants from the garden.
My final take — start with spider plant or heuchera
If you’re new to this, don’t start with rosemary or fuchsia. They’re rewarding but demanding. Pick a spider plant or a heuchera first. Both are forgiving, cheap, and will survive your learning curve. Once you’ve kept one alive for six months, try the geranium or cyclamen.
The biggest lesson I’ve learned: indoor conditions are different from outdoor. Less light, less air movement, less water loss. Adjust your watering and potting mix accordingly. And don’t be afraid to experiment — a $3 plant that dies taught me more than any article could.
